Our skin, a real barrier with the outside, constantly fights aggression.
Whether it is dry, sensitive, oily, acneic , we are all (and all) in search of THE beauty routine that would allow us to find a smooth and radiant skin.
What to do when you have a particularly oily skin, mixed or acne prone?
The Doctor Isabelle Baratte responded to questions on this topic during a facebook live organized by the brand Bioderma which I participated as the host and this against earnings. #it’s clear
I wanted to share this video that could answer many of your questions. If you do not have time to watch the video, I offer you a summary of the best advice of our dermatologist on oily or acne-prone skin!
The pathophysiology of acne pimple formation:
Hyperseborrhoea : The skin naturally secretes sebum through its pores. When the secretion is increased it is called a hyperseborrhoea.
Hyperkeratinization : The superficial layer of the skin is made of cells, the keratinocytes. Hyperkeratinization consists of an increased proliferation of these cells, causing the thickening of the skin. It is a physiological reaction of the skin against aggression (especially UV).
Inflammation : Pores can be irritated by irritation, and via the proliferation of a bacterium: Propionis acnes .
Skin care and treatments will then target one or more of these processes, depending on the type of acne.
We can also cite stress and family history as risk factors for acne .
Zone T: a physiologically more “fat” zone
The T zone (forehead and nose) is usually richer in sebaceous glands and logically more exposed to the sun. Thus this area is more at risk of developing pimples by hyperseborrhoea and hyperkeratinization.
If you suffer from a real imbalance between the fat T zone and the rest of your drier face, you will have to adopt two types of creams.
Which ritual adopted in case of oily skin?
Faced with a hyperseborrhea, it is a question of cleaning well without drying the excess skin. Indeed, if you strive on your skin with frequent cleansers and very astreingents, the skin will develop a reactive hyperseborrhoea.
For make-up removal , Isabelle recommends rather a micellar water for oily skin or a mousse. Cleansing milk is not prohibited if its texture is light enough, it will be especially appropriate if you are much makeup. Be careful of make-up removal oils, some of which may leave a greasy film on the skin.
In the morning, if your skin is oily you can clean it but it is useless if it is not the case.
The most suitable day cream limits seborrhea with, if possible, a matifying effect. There are many specific products limiting seborrhea.
Acne sensitive skin: finding the right compromise!
Acne treatments are drying for the skin, which is a problem when you also have sensitive skin, easily irritated. The challenge lies in the choice of effective treatments against acne while remaining soft. If your skin is red, irritated, it may be that the treatments you use are too aggressive.
What are acne treatments?
Depending on the type of acne, your age, your wishes, different treatments are possible on prescription of your dermatologist.
- topicals (creams, ointments): anti-inflammatories, antibiotics
- general treatments : hormonal treatments, antibiotics, isotretinoin …
Do not confuse marks, enlarged pores and scars:
Any simple scratched acne pimple can leave a mark , a red or brown trace that will disappear if we effectively protect ourselves from the sun (to avoid pigmentation marks)! There are creams that diminish the pigmentation to reduce them.
But some forms of acne are more aggressive and will leave real scars on the face (often in the form of holes). It is then necessary to prevent it by effective treatments of the acne or to treat the scars by deep peeling and laser.
The dilated pores are processed by products rich in fruit acids thanks to their keratolytic effect.
Food vs. acne?
It is often said that our skin is a reflection of our state of health . But no study has proven the link between the consumption of certain foods and acne breakouts ! However, in some people, this link really exists: it will then be necessary to identify these products and to avoid them as much as possible.
An excess of sugars can also play in acne but it is still variable according to the patients.
Regarding hydration , it is obviously advisable to be well hydrated for good general health. However, good oral hydration does not improve acne or the appearance of the skin because it has its own regulation.